The Index · House Profile
A Prince, a Castle,
and Five Plants
Somebody Banned.
Extra Virgo blends every bottle by hand in a Florentine castle, publishes its maceration schedule, and built its first collection entirely out of materials that have been outlawed, moralised about, or pushed underground. Nine of them are on the shelf.
House Spotlight
Extra Virgo makes perfume in a castle. That is not a tagline. Every bottle the house sells is hand blended at the Castle of Montecucchi outside Florence, aged at least three months before it is cut with alcohol, cured another month after that, and poured into Italian crystal sealed with a cap of black Carrara marble. The house publishes all of it. Almost nobody publishes their maceration schedule.
The man behind it is Alex Postiglione, who is also H.H. Prince Ne Min Gy of Limbin, a descendant of the Konbaung dynasty that ruled Burma until the British ended it. He was born in Florence. He studied art history there. On his own website he describes his profession in three words: photographer, founder of Extra Virgo. There is no perfumery school anywhere on his record, and the house has never claimed one for him.
What he has instead is land. The house talks about a set of family properties it calls secret gardens, where Postiglione grows and sources material, with Montecucchi first among them. That is not a metaphor either. The cannabis and the black rosemary in Monte Kush are grown on that estate and extracted there.
“I believe scent transcends time and space, is a symbol of peace and a connection with higher knowledge.”
He does not compose alone, and the credit picture is genuinely tangled, so here is the honest version. Michele Marin is a Florentine perfumer who trained in artistic perfumery at Cinquième Sens in Paris after a first career in cinema and theatre, where he worked with Franco Zeffirelli and Marco Bellocchio. He founded the Bar à Parfums Olfatorio in Florence and runs his own line. He is credited with most of what Extra Virgo has released. Sileno Cheloni, another Florentine and the nose behind Aquaflor, is credited with two of the Forbidden Botanica. Postiglione carries the creative director credit on the industry paperwork, and the brand's own site says the first collection was formulated by him.
Those two statements do not perfectly agree, and we are not going to pretend they do. What is clear enough is the shape of the thing: a very small Florentine circle, working for itself first, with two trained noses in the room. Pitti Immagine named both Marin and Cheloni as collaborators when the house debuted at Pitti Fragranze in 2022, which is as close to a house statement as this question gets.
One more thing before the bottles, because it explains why these smell the way they do. The house puts its formulas at 70 to 80 percent natural content and dilutes to roughly 25 to 30 percent in natural alcohol. That is extrait territory by any measure, and it is why a two millilitre sample of any of these goes further than you expect. It is also why they are expensive. You are buying a lot of absolute.
Forbidden Botanica
Coffee. Cacao. Tobacco. Cannabis. And the things that grow underground. The premise is that these are the materials that built perfumery's sensual vocabulary before somebody decided they were a problem, and the compositions are unusually literal about it. Animal Café is roughly thirty percent coffee absolute. Monte Kush uses live cannabis terpenes off the estate. This is not an accord standing in for an idea. It is the material, in quantity.
Animal Café
2ml $29.99 · 50ml $320Three coffee absolutes, Colombian, Ethiopian and Indonesian, making up roughly a third of the formula, then clove and cinnamon and a vintage civet paste underneath. A 2023 Art and Olfaction Awards finalist. It is not a café gourmand. It is the smell of the bean itself, oily and dark and slightly feral.
Coffee Absolute · Clove · Cinnamon · Oud · Civet
Sacred Tobacco
2ml $29.99 · 50ml $320Virginia Blond and Criollo tobacco absolutes over antique birch tar, with civet and castoreum set into Indian sandalwood. The house calls this the darkest potion of the five and does not oversell it. Pipe smoke, leather, a fire that has been going too long. Start here if you already know you like tar.
Tobacco Absolute · Birch Tar · Clove · Sandalwood · Castoreum
Cacao Ritual
2ml $29.99 · 50ml $320Cacao absolute from Colombia, Nicaragua and Honduras, cut with heirloom Moroccan jasmine and vintage Indian patchouli. The jasmine is the move. It keeps the cacao from going dessert and pushes the whole thing somewhere closer to skin. Bitter, not sweet, which is the opposite of what most chocolate fragrances do.
Cacao Absolute · Jasmine · Patchouli · Clove · Civet
Pangea
2ml $29.99 · 50ml $320Credited to Sileno Cheloni. Small batch vintage Florentine orris root absolute against porcini, shiitake and truffle absolutes, with royal hojari incense and aged Siam benzoin holding it together. Roots, rhizomes and fungi, which is a genuinely strange thing to build a perfume out of and the most interesting bottle in the collection.
Orris Root · Porcini · Shiitake · Truffle · Benzoin
Monte Kush
2ml $29.99 · 50ml $320Also credited to Cheloni, and the one named after the castle it is made in. Live cannabis terpenes and Tuscan black rosemary, both grown at Montecucchi and extracted on site to keep the terpenes intact, then Turkish and Damascus rose absolute, green hojari frankincense and vintage Cambodian oud. Herbaceous, balsamic, faintly narcotic. The cannabis reads as a real plant rather than the sweet hemp accord that shows up everywhere else, because it is one.
Cannabis Terpenes · Black Rosemary · Rose Absolute · Frankincense · Cambodian OudLes Fleurs du Mal
One flower per bottle, every one of them laid into the same bed of honey, beeswax and propolis. The house describes it as a collection dedicated to flowers and bees and never once mentions Baudelaire, which is either restraint or an assumption that you can read. Rose, violet, tuberose, helichrysum and osmanthus. We carry four of the five. Fortuna, the osmanthus, is not one of them.
Ambrosiae
2ml $24.99 · 50ml $230The rose. Honey, beeswax and propolis with saffron, Chinese oud and civet, which is the most conventionally beautiful thing the house makes and still not a polite rose. Named for the nectar of the gods, and the house points out that the word itself just means perfumed.
Rose · Honey · Propolis · Saffron · Chinese Oud
Vesta
2ml $24.99 · 50ml $230The violet, named for the Roman goddess of the sacred fire. Violet and iris over honey and incense, with peppermint and black grape doing something genuinely odd in the opening. Cold and nocturnal where Ambrosiae is warm. The one that surprises people.
Violet · Iris · Honey · Peppermint · Black Grape
Florilegium
2ml $24.99 · 50ml $230The tuberose, with gardenia beside it and vanilla and rum underneath the honey. This is the indolic one. If you have been told you do not like tuberose, this is not the bottle that changes your mind, and it is not trying to be.
Tuberose · Gardenia · Honey · Vanilla · Rum
Montecristo
2ml $24.99 · 50ml $230The helichrysum, named for the rocky island off the Tuscan coast that Dumas made famous. Immortelle with Laotian oud, cistus, oak moss and spice. Curry, maple, salt and smoke, which is what immortelle actually smells like when nobody sands the edges off it. The most divisive bottle here and our pick of the four.
Helichrysum · Propolis · Laotian Oud · Cistus · Oak MossHow to Start
- Buy the two millilitre first. Every one of the nine is listed with a 2ml alongside the 50ml, at $24.99 or $29.99. At 70 to 80 percent naturals these are not fragrances you sample once and understand. Two millilitres is four or five real wearings.
- Pick your side. Forbidden Botanica is dark, resinous and material driven. Les Fleurs du Mal is floral, honeyed and considerably easier to wear in company. They do not smell like the same house, and that is deliberate.
- If you want the shortcut, the Les Fleurs du Mal Discovery Set puts all five 2ml vials in one box for $95, including Fortuna, which we do not stock separately. There is one left. The Forbidden Botanica set is sold out at the moment.
- Give them time on skin. Everything here is aged four months before it is bottled and it behaves like it. The first ten minutes of Pangea or Monte Kush is not the fragrance.
Eleven listings.
One Florentine castle.
Nine fragrances and two discovery sets, in 2ml and 50ml, with the full Extra Virgo range we carry in one place.
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